Saturday, 25 March 2017

MARCH 2017 - TWO NIGHTS IN TRINIDAD

First stop:  friendly Trinidad (but not Tobago).  

A few stats in case you're​ entering a pub quiz anytime soon.  At 1,841 sq. miles, Trinidad comprises 93% of T&T, and sits the closest of any Caribbean island to South America - 11 miles to the coast of Venezuela (apparently visible on a clear day).  Tiny Tobago (united to form one colonial entity in the late 1890s) is 120 sq. miles, 5.8%, and there are a few smaller islands. The population, 1.34m, are properly 'Trinbagians'.  Because T&T lies on the continental shelf of South America, it's considered geologically to be within that continent and its oil and natural gas reserves make it the third richest country by GDP, per capita, in the Americas, after the US and Canada.  It was settled by the Spanish in the early 1500s (though, not being rich in silver and gold, was of less interest than other colonies).  A British colony from 1787, independence came on 31 August 1962.
On the way in from Port of Spain airport, we passed the 1842 lighthouse (it was initially situated at the end of a 120ft jetty leading from the seafront, but has been stranded on dry land since the waterfront reclamation at the end of the 19th century)


and then the temporary Parliament - the permanent building, "Red House" as its known, is being refurbished so this looks to be the seat of government for the foreseeable future.


First morning, we went two minutes' walk around the corner to the Savannah gardens (basically, a large common, around which runs what last nights's taxi driver assured us is "the world's biggest roundabout" - a 3 mile one-way street).  Along one side of the Savannah sit the 'Magnificent Seven', buildings built around the turn of the last century in a game of one-upmanship between various plantation owners.  The first is Queen's College (dedicated to VR, even though it dates from 1903 when she was well and truly dead...!)



an archibshop's Palace which looks spookily Tudor, like Lambeth Palace,





a rococco meringue,



and the last one - which apparently was modelled on Balmoral!


As you can imagine, it's quite a long street but happily, as well as coconut vendors,


 
there are benches all along the pavement, adorned with tiles







A cab dropped us downtown, at the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception 



very peaceful and lovely inside 




and then a good wander around town - along Independence Square...





the Holy Trinity Cathedral,



the moorish-looking Central Police Station Museum





and City Hall 





Next day, we walked across the south edge of the Savannah, admiring several fine restored houses 


BP’s interesting deco-like office


the now-closed stands from the big Carnival festival



and past the Bond-villain lair-esque 2009 NAPA – academy for performing arts; sadly the design was grossly deficient so it's now a mothballed white elephant. 


Nearby is the T&T National Museum and Art Gallery 




where we spent a few hours viewing local artefacts


(including an large blob of bitumen [apparently-static but Duncan's theory was that it's oozing its way to the exit!] from the Pitch Lake - the largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world at La Brea in SW Trinidad - and original posters from the House of Angostura (distilled in Venezuela from 1824 until the plant moved ito Trinidad in 1875), history and art (nice painting below of the police station)

 
Outside, it was baking hot so we flagged down a cab to go up to Fort George for a nice breeze and to admire excellent views across Port of Spain and the coastline



And so farewell Trinidad

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